Sunday, September 11, 2011

1920s Fashion History - The Cloche Hat

There aren't many more famous elements of 1920s fashion then the cloche hat. 

The Roaring Twenties were famous for the masculine influence of designers like Coco Chanel, who's Little Black Dress revolutionized fashion by "letting go of the waistline."

The History of the Cloche

Cloche hats were wildly popular with the young flapper girls of the 1920s, because they allowed women to tuck their hair up into the hair to give the appearance of having short hair. Short hair not becoming popular until the middle part of the decade.

Like many of the popular trademarks of 1920s fashion, the cloche was invented in France by the famous Parisian milliner (i.e. hat maker) Caroline Reboux in 1923.

No one knew how popular this simple "bell shaped" hat would become.

The deep snug-fitting crown of the hat plus the small brim covered a woman's head and shield her eyes from the sun, but minimized the radius of the brim that would blow the hat off in the wind.

Materials

Because of the popularity of these hats, they were made from many different materials so women could wear them throughout the entire year.

Cloches were usually made from satin, silk velvet, rayon faille, horsehair, straw, cotton or felt. In the cold winter months they were often made out of animal furs like mink or brushed "napped" beaver pelt.

The Different Styles

"Cloche" is French named because it is "bell" shaped. There are many varieties of cloche hats, some had wider brims than others, some had feathers, others were totally plain.

Today the different styles of 1920s hats are often lumped together. Here are some of the different styles:

Gigolo Hat - Was introduced by Caroline Reboux in 1925, the gigolo hat was named after the "ladies man"
of the day. It featured a wide, drooping brim that was irregularly shaped and dipped lower on one side than the other. It also had an irregular crease a the top of the hat.

Reboux was famous for using minimalistic styles and making them interesting through her use of irregular shapes, creases, and hat molding techniques.

Turban - Inspired by the Art Deco movement in 1920s fashion, the turban was also introduced by Reboux and her assistant Mme. Agnes. It featured wraps of fabric around a cloche structure, revealing a hat that was both functional and reminiscent of the ancient Egyptian culture that was popularized in the 1920s.

Late 1920s Cloches - As the style progressed fashion designers took it to the limit, stripping the hat down to it's most minimalistic form. They cut away the front part of the brim and turned it back against the brow, leaving flaps for a woman's ears and making it look more like a football helmet than a hat.

Famous Hat Designers of the 1920s

1920s fashion is known for its progression from the Victorian Age, the often forgotten milliners who reinvented the hat during the Roaring Twenties were:

Maria Guy, Jane Blanchot, Louisa Bourbon, Suzanne Talbot, Marie Alphonsine, Rose Descat, and of course Paul Poiret.

What Makes 1920s Fashion Special?

These milliners brought the stodgy old fashions of the Victorian Era out of the closet and "made it new."
Like the rest of 1920s, the fashions moved forward rapidly, replacing the old outdated conventions of the past at an alarming rate. Designers took what society gave them and reinvented new fashions that closely reflected the new bustling society which surrounded them.

Jesse B. loves 1920s fashion because it reflects the elegant Golden Age of style.

He invites you to come celebrate the history of the 1920s, discover Al Capone, Louise Brooks & Coco Chanel like you've never seen them before.